A lot has happened since last week! In Italy, we started our trip with a fab traditional dinner at Parma Rotta and began our three-day appreciation of Lambrusco. This is also the restaurant where we learned the phrase ‘piece of shame,’ referring to the tiny bit of food on a plate that everyone politely leaves behind. Spoiler alert, I’m using it for the rest of my life.
In Parma on Friday, we had a packed day, starting with visiting Ugolotti Parmigiano Reggiano Dairy, one of the 309 dairies where Parmigiano Reggiano is made. The process is interesting and actually much quicker than I thought (minus the aging, of course). You can see some views from the dairy here.
From tasting the cheese - 12, 24, and 36 months (24 months is most readily available in Dubai), we took in some culture at the stunning Torrechiara Castle, and then onto Trattoria Ai Due Platani for lunch. Fresh tortelli di zucca? A thing of beauty. More glasses of Lambrusco? Si, grazie! After a brief rest, we thoroughly enjoyed a guided tour of Parma with one of the best local guides. We soaked up some local Parma time by enjoying an aperitivo al fresco before walking over to dinner at Cortex Bistrot. This quirky spot has some unique offerings, and other than wanting my plates just a bit warmer, I would definitely return. I pulled together some clips from our first day here.
The following day, after a unique (?) experience to get our PCR tests, we were over to Modena and had a memorable visit to the production of the traditional balsamic vinegar (PDO) at Acetaia Di Giorgio. Did I buy some of this beautiful balsamic? You better believe it. We then went to lunch at nearby Antica Moka, which was simply stunning and worth stopping into. Dinner was at Parizzi restaurant, which — the less I say, is probably better for everyone (subscribers will have already read about the full (disappointing) experience). However, even the most frustrating dinner services are made remarkable when the company is good. To Grace, David, Mama Slava, and Lisa, my forever cold cuts club, thank you! I put together a Reel for the second day here.
For continued transparency, this was a press trip. I was invited to all of these wonderful locations. I’ve collated all of my time in Parma into the highlights on my Instagram account, which can be found here.
Back in Dubai, I stuck close to home, except to venture out for Gohan, which lived up to every expectation. Honestly, the city needs more of these small spaces (complemented by a fab menu and fit-out). Want an idea of what to order? Right this way. #invited
I also received several deliveries, including vegan (!) sushi from Moby, the latest from the Inked team. My favorite was the Grilled Romaine Salad (the miso-ginger dressing is epic). On the same trend, we tried an Impossible Burger from Good Burger, which honestly, it’s a pretty close match (also, they have waffle fries, which no one bothered to tell me about). Haiaya Tea surprised me with some of the latest, including an infuser mug, so I could best infuse (and reinfuse) my loose leaf teas. #gifted
Links, please.
Condiments, sauces, dips. Refinery29
The worst restaurant chairs. Eater
BOCA is hosting another amazing night. If you don’t have plans for Nov 2-3, click here. Instagram
No thoughts, just him. Twitter
Having worked on a train in my 20’s, interested in this read about train food. Eater
Some unsolicited recommendations. Medium
What steals joy? Aesthetics of Joy
Some twisted packaging. The Dineline
Can’t decide if gross or brilliant. The Kitchn
Similar to above. The Kitchn
Need to taste. Little Beans
Just really into this placemat. Misette
Thanksgiving = best pie holiday. Food & Wine
I don’t know about this. The Takeout
Bathroom playlists. Eater
Sounds delicious, Cacio e Pepe Biscuits. Food52
Sounds gross, OJ flavored toothpaste. The Dineline
Divine your dinner. Eater
This weekend? Hiking on Friday and excited to do some grilling at Spinneys with Mattar Farms.
Next week? Kicking the week off with a media night BOCA and a secret dinner on Monday that I’ll (hopefully) be sharing more about in the following newsletter.
This month? We’re at the end of October (!!!), what were your favorite dishes? I was absolutely spoiled for choice. In no particular order, the Flux course at The Jane, the Potato foam/Pumpkin curry ice from Thomas Bühner at Jubilee, and the copious amounts of Torta fritta, Parmigiano Reggiano, and Lambrusco we enjoyed across Parma. Drop your favorites in the comments.
Next month? I’m happy to announce my attendance at San Sebastian Gastronimka, taking place in Spain. I’m generously invited by the Spanish Tourism Board. If you happen to know anyone who will be on the ground, please let me know!
If you enjoy this newsletter and want to support me, consider telling a friend, ordering from these restaurants, purchasing my books (or these novels), or buying me coffee.
C.