Row on 45.

Jason Atherton makes a spenny splash in the Marina.

A new jewel in the Dubai culinary scene crown might just be Row on 45 by award-winning chef Jason Atherton…

The recently opened fine dining venue occupies a space above City Social, accessed at Groversnor House (yes, for the record, I intentionally went to the Marina). The lift to Row on 45 opens immediately into intimate lighting, and the meal begins with snacks in a living room setting, which instantly welcomes diners. For the record, I am a forever fan of this concept. I believe it’s so important to bring guests into a space, and very few restaurants in the city have accomplished this approach. Basically, you never know what sort of day your diners had before they see you, and bringing them into a dimly lit, well-appointed space is a great way to immediately start the experience and differentiate between other outlets. Oh, and a glass of champagne certainly doesn’t hurt.

Starting with a glass (or two) of bubbles, our group of foodies is highly divided on the opening Oyster dish, but …