The Beam.

Chef Nick's got it right.

Regular readers will know — and perhaps even share — my abhorrence for the Dubai Marina. It’s a real thing that I only choose to go to the marina during Ramadan, as it’s easy to work around iftar timings (and therefore most of the lack of utterly worthless and frustrating traffic). After (oops) pulling into the wrong property, I finally make my way to the correct hotel (Le Meridien Beach Resort & Spa) and make the long walk to The Beam by Nick Alvis (who you might remember from the brightest days at folly). The restaurant is easy to find on the property and blazing with newness, bright and shiny, like a beacon in a collection of otherwise somewhat dated venues.

The Beam — named for the fractured light that hits the restaurant in the afternoons — is more extensive than I expected but not overwhelming. The restaurant offers fresh, clean lines, a central bar, a dedicated seafood bar, a large collection of wine, and a wonderful outdoor space, which my dining partner and I take advantage of…