Second Helpings (XIII).

New seasons, menus, and special events.

Row on 45**

First things first, the current season at Row on 45 is quiet, confident, and Japanese-themed. If you’re (somehow) not into Japanese cuisine, this probably isn’t the right time to visit (though I would argue that everything Row does, they do well). Hubs and I are lucky, as Chef Jason Atherton is in the kitchen for our experience, which is not always the case. He’s joined by a highly competent team of chefs, who I’ve had the pleasure of getting to know over the years.

Seated in the lounge, the culinary narrative unfolds at a deliberate pace. As usual, each course feels like a chapter: intimate, beautifully plated, and free of excess. The standout courses (and there are several) speak to Atherton’s evolving philosophy. The focus this season on Japanese products is evident throughout the menu — for example, there is a variety of potatoes available only in Japan. Row on 45 is the first to serve it outside the country. I will make the vague suggestion that there *is* a carbon fo…