Weekly A to Z

Weekly A to Z

Holen*

Not the Michelin I was looking for...

Courtney Brandt's avatar
Courtney Brandt
Jul 14, 2021
∙ Paid

After a morning spent at a dairy museum (yes, such a thing exists), we also visited the local farmers market, La Criée, and then had a sneaky bottle (or two) of bubbles before strolling to dinner at Holen. Holen is a one Michelin star restaurant by Chef Tugdual Debethune. Interestingly, Chef Tugdual only started his restaurant when he was 58 and was awarded a star when he was 60. Whether or not I agree with the team at Michelin, it’s still a significant accomplishment.

Holen is a small (!) restaurant, consisting of two rooms (we dined in the ‘larger’ private space). It’s cozy, in a way that only restaurants in small European cities can be. We officially start with a flavored butter (because, well, it’s a press trip about butter), but I can’t complain about the yuzu/buckwheat combination.

Our ‘amuse-bouche’ (which is also a bread course) is some sort of magic sweet fluffy bread that I could easily consume a kilo (or more of). At this point, we were all looking forward to the meal ahead.

A…

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