Elkano*

#16 on the World's 50 Best Restaurant list.

When I was sent the schedule for San Sebastian Gastronomika, I was excited by a number of the events and dinners throughout the conference. On the first full day of the event, following a full day of presentations, we all went to Elkano, currently awarded one Michelin star, and ranked #16 on the prestigious World’s 50 Best List, and mentioned by Thomas Keller as ‘the best fish restaurant in the world.’

Sorry, Mr. Keller, I might have to disagree with you.

After a (long) day at the conference, I boarded a bus with other journalists, and we made the roughly 40 minute trip to Elkano. Outside the restaurant are the massive grills where most (if not all) of the proteins are cooked. The interior is nothing too fancy or modern but in line with the coastal vibes of the town. While I enjoyed the simplicity and respect tradition, at the end of the meal, I realized I absolutely prefer more complex dishes.

So, what was on the menu?

We started with lobster roe and their coral, which, despite the some…